Debbie Bliss has just published design it, knit it: secrets from the designer's studio.
I really like this book. But then, I really like Bliss' designs ... I'm definitely an anglo-phile when it comes to anything knitterly and Bliss is one of the best! I'm entranced by her palette of subtle, soft colors and her Aran-inspired designs are gorgeous. Besides, she has her own yarn company -- how cool is that?
But, back to the book review. Bliss used the "tools" of the designer as her chapter breaks:
As she points out, these are each tools that can be manipulated -- either together or individually to design a hand-knit garment. Sometimes, the tool of color is the focus -- and shape, texture and details follow from the chosen color. Other times, it might be that the shape and texture work together and the color is chosen to highlight those.
She includes a workbook at the end -- with pattern silhouettes (with one filled-in so you can see how to play with these), knitters' graph paper in 6st x 8r gauge, and a stitch gauge that you can use in the book or take out and keep in your knitting bag. The workbook pages -- the silhouettes and the graph paper -- are clearly labeled "photocopying permitted" so that you can take them to your printshop and have copies made with no copyright issues.
I also love that sixth and spring books did a hidden spiral binding and used paper with a slight matte finish so glare on the photographs and pages is minimized. The palette of colors used throughout the book is beautiful and very inspiring to me.
Bliss has included 15 original designs, three in each chapter, that serve to illustrate her design tips and guidelines. A few of these designs are worth the price of the book alone! I love the simplicity of the "Button Detail Top" and the simply sophisticated "Gater Stitch Jacket with Vent" and especially, the "Bobble and Cable Sweater"! Wow!
However, there is one thing that drives me nuts with these gorgeous, famous-designer books -- when the garments shown are just simply wrong!
For instance, the "Fair Isle Cardigan" is a work of art -- until you look at the full picture on page 48 -- the stripes (and therefore, the bands) don't line up! AND, the sweater doesn't fit the model. Or, the baby jacket on page 84 -- the rolled hems are cute, but the rolled closure looks messy and unfinished. The "Cabled Band Cardigan" on page 111 is a beautiful sweater -- but again, the buttons don't line up properly and there are gaps and the hem looks uneven. Finally, the "Cardigan with Ribbed Sleeves" (page 121) doesn't have enough of a front band to keep the edge from curling back -- a very messy finish (especially as this sweater is one of the designs in the "detail" chapter!). These photos are taken by professional photographers of items designed by a pro, knitted (assumingly) by a pro, "styled" by pro stylists ... and we still have this?
Bottom line -- I really like this book. But, and maybe this is why I'm a designer, I would have to change a few of her designs to make them up ... larger bands, neater buttons/buttonhole placement, etc. Also, a caveat that Bliss omitted on her "Garter Stitch Coat" (which I so want to make for myself ... if I ever get the time to knit for me!) .... garter stitch grows ... and grows ... and grows. This coat needs to be knit at a fairly firm gauge (or tension, for my British readers) and I think I'd even stabilize the neck and shoulders with a bit of ribbon or single-crochet along the seams.
Have you read this one yet? What are your thoughts or comments? Let me know in the comments below.
Mary C. Gildersleeve
By Hand, With Heart -- hand-knit designs
bhwh.mary@gmail.com
2 comments:
I haven't read this and I don't design. I tinker a bit, certainly! My only problem with DB patterns is that they all seem so huge. I understand that's something she intends to some extent, but the cardigan I half finished and the one my sister did finish were far too big, so I haven't tried another. I wonder how many of those knit models have clothespins on their backs pinching all the extra fabric together.
Jennifer,
Yep, I know what you mean. A couple of things you can do though: first, look at the schematics of the design and determine if you should go down a size or two from your "usual" size. There is supposed to be consistency in how patterns are sized (and a note about fit -- you'll see this particularly in Knitters Magazine!) but that doesn't always happen. Definitely check out the schematic. That's why I always tell folks to really look at the detailed photos and the schematic ... as you saw with my litany of "pet peeves".
Also, sometimes it's the drape of the yarn you're using vs what the designer used ... another reason gauge is so important, especially if you're using a different yarn (even if it's the same gauge and type of yarn ... the drape maybe different).
Hope that helps!
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